21:30, Monday, 27 January 2014. Anchored at La Playita , Panama
It is hard to believe that we are back in the Pacific Ocean and back in the anchorage where we were
almost a year ago. We know some of the boats here. Some have been here all
along while others, like Sundancer, have returned from voyages far afield, Ecuador Caribbean so
some are not tuned in with the rigors of cruising yet, like the boats on the
Baja Ha Ha. Several have been causing havoc by dragging at anchor, taking up
most of the dinghy spaces at the dock and a few almost losing theirs as the
tides left them high and dry. They are entertaining….
We departed Shelter
Bay
The Motley Crue: Bill, Ashlyn, J-G and Janet
We were one of 3
sailboats tied together for the locking up. By the time we arrived at the
mooring buoy in Lake Gatun it was dark. It was
a pleasant night but an early morning with the advisor scheduled to arrive 06:30.
He (Harold) arrived an hour late but we were the first of the 3 boats to leave
for the crossing. Harold’s real job is as a security guard but he moonlights as
a small boat advisor as often as he can. He proved to be quite the character
and kept a running commentary for almost the entire crossing pointing out
highlights and giving us a Canal history lesson. Among the many sights he
pointed out were the prison where Noriega has been incarcerated since he was
returned to Panama and the
giant “Hercules” cranes that had originated in wartime Germany
Harold: Advisor, tour guide wannabe
Hercules crane
Noriega's home sweet home
We arrived at the Pedro Miguel locks by 13:00 but had to
wait till 16:00 for the ship we were supposed to be locking down with, and it
was late. The other 2 sailboats had already gone through so we were left all by
our lonesome in front of our accompanying freighter. While we were waiting a Canal tug did some alongside practices on a buoy close-by. It is a daunting feeling
to see a Panamax ship sliding into the same lock astern and we couldn’t help
but pray that the small line handling locomotives, assisting the ship would
keep positive control. Being alone in the lock we were secured by 4 lines, two
each side, handled by our crew so that we maintained that position while they
drained the lock. We had no incidents, unlike many boats we heard about where
lines parted or the vessels slewed into the walls due to crew error or just
plain bad luck.
Canal tug: buoy bashing practice
By 19:00 we were out of the last of the Miraflores locks and
back in the waters of the Pacific, on our way to this anchorage. We arrived
after dark found a spot and settled in for another celebration of a successful
Canal crossing. While in the Miraflores locks our advisor had the canal crew
re-aim the webcam so that it pointed directly at us and a flurry of phone
calls, e-mails and Facebook postings went out to notify as many people as we could
to tune us in.
Pacific in sight!!!
Canal geek, with GOPRO camera
It has been 4 days now since that memorable event and we are
getting ready to press on to Mexico Jacksons left a few days ago and are now home
in Canada
3 days ago we discovered that our refrigeration system had a
major problem. The seawater cooling had finally corroded through the Freon
tubes and contaminated the entire system. We have been trying to source out a
replacement but we will definitely be delayed until it arrives. Hopes to meet
my brother and sister-in-law in Playa Del Coco, Costa Rica
We had a great evening with Ron and Heather (Sundancer) last
night catching up on all of their adventures in Ecuador
21:00, Thursday, 30 January 2014, La Playita Anchorage
Great news! The new refrigeration system has arrived. We
should have it installed and working by tomorrow afternoon and, with luck, we
should be on our way the following day. We had problems getting the initial
order sourced out and had decided that we were going to leave anyway using ice
to get us up the coast but Tuesday afternoon, Marine Warehouse, a local
facilitator for marine orders came through with the promise of a 2-4 day
delivery. They did it in 2, fabulous!! We are $2000 poorer (lost 10% on the
exchange rate) but we can now be assured that we will have ice for the rum and cold
beer. Creature comforts, I know. We can now do our last big shop before we
leave, knowing that the perishables will keep.
It has been interesting to see our batteries charge up
without the refrigerator drain; by 10am we were fully charged. The amount of
sunshine also helps, quite the difference from the Caribbean .
Yesterday was 25% off day at Abernathy’s, the local boat
supply store so I got a few early birthday presents; an air propelled spear-gun
and a decent trolling rod and reel. Hope to give both a baptism by fire soon!
22:00, Saturday, 1 February 2014, La Playita Anchorage
Yesterday an old friend arrived from Tobago Island
Epiphany
Sad to say we will also have to say good-bye to Heather and
Ron (Sun Dancer). They will be heading to the Galapagos and Ecuador
More delays and issues caused us to lag on in Playita for another
few days. The salt water cooling function for the refrigeration system was a
bit trickier to install, then we had to clean out the water-maker system and
then, to top it all off, I came down with another case of prostatitis, the
second in 3 months. That gland has its days numbered!!! We had to let that run
its 3-4 day course but decided to leave Playita for Taboga, a 5-mile trip, this
morning when I didn’t feel to bad. It sure feels nice to finally be away from Panama
Fresh bananas for the ride up.
Royal Exchange is still here, after 2-3 years looking forlorn but in good shape. Her owners, Lin and Lee will, most likely never be back after Lee's tragic accident just over a year ago. Royal Ex was the first boat we really cruised in and where we got our desire to do it ourselves. She is for sale and will be a bargain for whoever takes her on. We took a number of photos for Lin and Lee but were not able to get
inside as Chuey is away on holidays.
Royal Exchange
The water quality in the entire Gulf has changed again to
the conditions that met us as we arrived last year. The water is much colder
than usual, in the low 70s F and it is carrying a lot of plankton and other
crap from the deep. The other day, in Playita, a surface layer of red tide
drifted into the anchorage. The smell alone was bad enough but it also left a “bathtub
ring” along our waterline.
07:30, Friday, February 07, 2014, Anchored at Isla Brincano,
Islas Contreras.
We stayed for the afternoon at Tabago and sailed away with
the freshening late afternoon breeze. Our intention was to sail the night and
get around Punta Mala by morning but I started to feel crappy again in the late
afternoon so we anchored for the night at Isla Bano. We left early the next
morning with a nice NW wind that lasted all morning but by the afternoon we
were powering again and rounded Punta Mala in calm seas. By nightfall we were
sailing along the southern cape in a brisk NW breeze that lasted into the
following day.
And here we are in another magical anchorage!! This island
is part of the Coiba Marine Park
system, patrolled by a private organization, the Mar Viva Foundation, which has
its roots in Switzerland island of Coiba is reputed to have the best scuba diving
conditions in all of Panama
We arrived here late afternoon yesterday after an overnight
passage from the Gulf of Panama . This is one
of those anchorages that you rarely experience. We were the only occupants of
this lovely bay and it is absolutely quiet. The water is crystal clear with
fish and rays jumping so we decided to join them, al fresco. What a difference
from the Gulf of Panama !! Here the water a
pleasant 81F. It is sad to realize that we will not experience conditions like
this again in our travels this season.
16:00, Saturday, February 08, 2014. Anchored off Land and
Sea Marina, Golfito, CR
Another overnighter and we have arrived at Golfito. It was
an early arrival and we managed to fuel up before anchoring in front of Tim and
Katie’s little marina. We were here almost a year ago and little has changed. It
is Saturday so we will have to wait out the weekend to check in to Costa Rica,
actually we can’t do it till Tuesday as aduana (Customs) is closed Monday,
another delay! We will have to make our next stop in Playa de Cocos to clear
out of the country and that is a chore because of the aduana stop which is a
taxi ride to the airport at Liberia
Grackel inspection on arrival at Golfito.....
On our way yesterday we decided to stop in at Isla Ladrones,
a small island about 20 miles offshore but only a few miles off our track. We
had time to spare so the diversion was welcomed. There was already a fishing
boat at anchor, the crew resting before a night of grueling work so we quietly
slipped in and anchored close by. We both went snorkeling (with suits on) and
were amazed at the tame fish life. I think the fish were attracted by Fran’s
bright yellow bathing suit. I went back for my spear gun and everything
changed! Many fewer fish but one big parrot fish teased me for a while but
slipped under a coral head when I went after it. Not to be outdone I followed
and stopped dead when I saw a large moray eel stick its head out of the same
coral head. Talk about a sneaky fish but this symbiotic relationship is
probably the reason the Parrot fish was so big. We left at sunset and powered
directly into a light westerly breeze, and a half moon that kept the ocean
bright most of the night. Had we known that there was no possibility of
checking into the country over the weekend we would have stayed but, alas, it
wasn’t to be.
Since Panama
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