Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Barra - Santiago bay

Wednesday, 28th of Jan
We have been anchored off the Las Hadas resort for the past few days. Since the last entry we have been relaxing in sheltered anchorages and enjoying our surroundings. Here we have found a spot where we have free WIFI access so I can finally update the blog for the past week.
We departed Tenecatita the following morning and arrived at the entrance to Barra by early afternoon. Although I had the waypoints for the channel leading in to the lagoon we called ahead and were met by Shoot the Moon who guided us in his dinghy. The waypoints proved to be very accurate even though they had been charted 4 years ago.
Inside the lagoon there were approx 30 boats and we were the only Canadian boat for a few days until we were joined by a boat from Vancouver called called Mary Powell. We were in a good company of cruisers who maintained an enjoyable morning net that covered Santiago bay to Tenecatita. Barra hasn’t changed much in the past 2 years since we visited in Royal Exchange. The sands Hotel still caters to the cruiser crowd and it still appears to be run down but the bars are lively and it has free WIFI service. Who could ask for more? The laundry we used then is still operating and a still good deal, the little girl we photographed in 2007 is 2 years older now but still accompanies her mother to the same souvenir shop and the French Baker who delivers to the boats in the lagoon still has outlandish prices on his products but still finds customers among the boats in the lagoon and marina..
While there, the centre of activity was the Grand Bay Marina which hosted a 3-day fishing tournament. Our curiosity kept us there an extra day to see the final weigh –in. The winning fish was a 93.3 kg marlin. But the fish was only part of the attraction. 10 peso beer and the Tecate girls (Tecate was the principle sponsor for the tourney) and it being a focal point to meet other cruisers made it a fun event. The tourney itself was a rich man’s event and at $3000 per entry it was out of reach to the cruiser community.
We did meet some old acquaintances from last year’s passage up the coast, Coastal Passage and Darkside and a few we had met while on Royal Exchange, Dean and Maryanne in Rippling Waters and Bill on Raptor Dance who came out to the boat and gave me some pointers to improve my SSB/Ham performance.
Rosie enjoyed this stop and went nuts when we took her to the manicured lawns of the Grand Bay. She ran around in the soft grass like a whirling dervish for about 10 minutes. We also took her on the kayak to the golf course and along the shore where we found a beautiful plant nursery for the resort.
We weighed anchor and left Barra on Sunday the 25th and powered in light airs down the coast towards Manzanillo. During the 5 hour crossing we had the line out and to our great surprise we hooked a 25-40 lb sail fish that gave us quite a show for the 20 minutes he was on the line. Mercifully, it slipped the hook but we had had our thrill. Our only regret was not getting a decent photo.
We arrived in Santiago Bay in mid-afternoon and bypassed the usual anchorage spot on the north side of the bay for the cove outside Las Hadas. This proved to be a wise decision. Here we are close to public transportation for shopping, we can use the dock facilities of Las Hadas for free and we have free WIFI thanks to some unsuspecting provider and there are a few bars and restaurants along the beach that are very friendly to the cruisers.
There are a dozen other boats here, including a few that have followed us from Barra. We were thrilled to meet up with another Blue Water Cruising boat, Warren Peace (Steve and Linda Warren), who we had met at the farewell event for this year’s departing cruisers in Montague Harbour last summer. With Steve’s help I was able to re-rig my masthead halyard. We had a good morning snorkeling with them just off the 18th hole of the local golf course collecting golf balls and seeing the colorful fish and we topped it all off with supper on board, sharing stories and planning future rendezvous.
We have had to shut down the freezer. It was costing us a fortune in amp-hours. The difference without it is quite remarkable. Looks like we will have to go back to the drawing board on that one.
We will be departing this afternoon for Zihuatanejo, a 2-day run from here. The weather is ideal but the winds may be a bit light for us. No idea what e-mail service will be like when we get there.

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

La Paz to Barra de Navidad


1500, Friday, 17 Jan 2009 - Posn:22 29.0N, 107 50.5W, 110 nm SSE of Cabo San Lucas
We are under sail with the mizzen and the spinnaker flying in a 12-15 kt quartering wind and stern on seas of 3-4 ft. The GPS indicates that we are doing 5.5 - 6 kts over the ground and we are enjoying every minute of it. We are out of sight of land for only the second time in Gosling. The first was a day or so on the way down the west coast of the Baja last spring. The air is cool and the sky is clear. The flying fish are all around us leaping from wave to wave in their attempts to flee our intrusion and the boobies are diving in chase.
We departed La Paz at 0900 on Thursday into a freshening northerly breeze. By the time we arrived at San Lorenzo Channel it had reached the 10-15 kts predicted on the morning net. We were able to sail down the coast to Los Muertos but by mid-afternoon we had to supplement with the engine to reach the anchorage before nightfall, arriving just as the last light was fading.
We departed the anchorage the following morning, sails up and running before a 12-15 kt breeze and have yet to see it diminish in strength. We were even able to steer by wind-vane for a short period, another first for us, however with a slight backing of the wind we had to resort to the auto pilot.
The night was long and quite cool but by 2200 the waning moon in its last quarter brightened things up. Several times we were alerted by the shallow water alarm only to see a solid mass near the surface on the sounder. This morning we found several small squid on the deck leading us to believe that these were huge banks of these creatures coming to the surface to feed at night.
Rosie is not having a very good time of this. She has been seasick and yesterday she made quite a mess, however today she seems to have perked up a bit. She still prefers to stay in her bunk but she has taken on a bit of food and water. In my last entry I forgot to mention the extra expense I had at Marina Palmira. On our first night we went ashore to a small restaurant with several friends leaving Rosie in the aft cabin. On our return we found J-G’s electronic dock key pass in shreds on the bed where he had left it. So far, this has been the first item she has destroyed but a $50.00 (US) mistake on J-G’s part.
As I was finishing the last sentence I heard an ominous “bang”! The spinnaker was in the water, the halyard broken at the masthead! It took some time to recover it and it came in undamaged. Looks like I will be some masthead work when we reach Barra to re-rig it and correct whatever was causing the chaffing. These lines were replaced 3 years ago and haven’t had that much use. Of the 2 halyards this one had to be the one that led up through the inside of the mast.... We are now proceeding under genoa and Mizzen and still maintaining 5.5-6 kts but rolling as bit more.
10:20 Monday, 19 Jan 2009
We made landfall on the coastline below Cabo Corrientes at sunrise. We are power sailing in order to reach Barra in daylight but it looks doubtful so we are planning on anchoring in Tenecatita for the night and continuing tomorrow. We are familiar with this bay as we were last here 2 years ago with Royal Exchange . Except for a few hours of light winds yesterday morning we have continued to experience great sailing weather, however, a few hours ago the wind died off and we are now powering in an oily calm sea with long swells from the NE. Fran is enjoying the occasional visits by dolphins and whoops with excitement when they come close and play in the bow wave. We haven’t seen any whales yet but the challenge is out for the first to spot one.
With the engine on there is no concern about power consumption so we are charging both computer batteries and operating the water maker to increase our store of drinking water. The freezer continues to worry us. It draws 6 amps when running and it runs a long time before shutting down. We are quite certain the reason is a lack of adequate insulation in the original refrigerator. Another project for next season.
They say that bad luck comes in 3’s; I hope that adage is true. At the change of watch 2 nights ago Fran wanted me to investigate an odd noise from astern. Sure enough it was trouble. The wind-vane that I had rebuilt in Guaymas was being towed by the control cables. All 3 mounting brackets had broken. With the aid of the mizzen topping lift we were able to recover it and lash it on deck. Parts for repairing this will be impossible to find here. The following day we flew the spinnaker again without incident but when we recovered it we noticed that one of the pulpit supports was loose. The through bolt had sheared. Hope there is a good stainless repair facility in Zihuatanejo. The “to do” list is adding up. We also lost a big fish in mid-morning, taking the lure with it on it’s dive to freedom. I didn’t mind that loss and expect to have the big ones get away. We only want the “easy to handle on deck” versions.
I have managed to repair the broken spinnaker halyard thanks to my time in Oriole where I learned to splice Sampson braid. Now the hard part will be to thread it down the mast and fish it out of the sleeve.
1800, 19 Jan
We are anchored in the outer bay at Tenecatita. On to Barra tomorrow. Just heard on the SSB net this morning that a boat called Carpe Diem was abandoned not far from our track just east of Cabo yesterday. Crew was saved but the boat is adrift. No other details were provided. There are many Carpe Diem’s around.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Loitering in La paz

13 Jan 09
Well the few days has turned into a week. We were warned by Om Shanti that La Paz has a vortex effect on a lot of boats and we have found that to be very true. Mind you, the main reason we have stayed so long has been to wait out a gale that swept through here over the weekend.
It had been predicted early last week that the Northerly gale would hit the Sea of Cortez by Saturday with winds in the San Carlos area to peak at sand blasting strength and lighten as the system proceeded south. Initially we were at a dock exposed to the North but we managed to shift inside the marina with a few days grace. As luck would have it Kirk (Freedom Kirkland) was assigned the same berth and he was tossed about all weekend in the 25-30 kt winds.
We are also delayed by repairs to the freezer system that we had installed in Guaymas. Although the seller has guaranteed his system he can’t be here to make the modifications required so he has agreed to reimburse us the costs incurred here. Hopefully we will have the final tweaking completed by tomorrow morning so we can depart. Conditions are ideal at the moment but that can change quickly on the Baja side of the Sea. We have been monitoring the Magic Seaweed and Buoyweather websites for our forecasts as we can’t get the SSB forecasts here in the port.
Fran has been quite busy with yoga, Mexican Train dominoes and attending an information group for cruiser women. Last week the topic of discussion was weather forecasting and this week one of the members will make a presentation on her experiences of sailing to 5 continents.
We have joined up with our friends Bill and Linda (Tanque de Tiburon, Kirk (Freedom Kirkland), Ken and Patty (Red Pepper) and Vicky (Inspiration at Sea) and have had some good get togethers. We will be sad to part company but we hear Zihuatanejo calling. The party begins on the 4th of Feb so we still have lots of time to get there.
We have also met Robert Raymond an insurance adjuster with BC Yacht Insurance, the company that had refused us last year. He is here holidaying in the area and drumming up business amongst the local cruisers. Now that we have demonstrated that all of the survey recommendations have been satisfied they have agreed to cover us for the next year at a slight savings from our present coverage.
We have also acquired a 2-man inflatable kayak and have sold our 1 person model. We had been looking for a second single but Fran thought the double would be more suitable with her lack of experience and upper body strength. We are looking forward to using it when we get to the other side.
Sorry about the lack of photos. We don't seem to be able to upload from WIFI sites. Hope to get them on soon.
Next issue will be after the crossing.
PS Great news from Doug and Trish tonight. Doug underwent his PET scan in Tucson yesterday and the results indicate that his treatments were successful and that he is cancer free!

Monday, January 5, 2009

Arrived in La Paz



Saturday, 3 Jan 2009
We are finally at sea and headed south. We have departed an overnight anchorage at Agua Verde and are headed towards La Paz. The wind is on the nose so we are powering and making good 6 kts at 1680 rpm.
We departed San Carlos mid morning on the first of January after spending the evening with friends at the Captain’s Club. Out of 5 couples at our table only 2 made it to midnight. The cruiser’s midnight of 2100 was obviously well ingrained. We were ready to depart. All preps were completed and we had bid farewell to everyone the night before. Julie (Sea Fire) cast off our lines while Rosie cast longing looks at the shore and at her pal Cortez. Trish (Ka-Em-Te) waved from her boat as we slipped along the moored boats and headed out of the marina. On the way out we passed Daydream, with Wayne and Susan from Ladysmith. They will be heading for the Marquesas this season.
Once out of the harbour we were met by light easterly winds and a 2-3 foot swell from the southwest but after an hour the wind veered to the SSW and freshened to 15-18 kts. We were able to sail all day and night under genoa, main and mizzen with the wind abaft the beam. Mid afternoon we had a strike on the fishing line and brought in a nice 8-10 lb Dorado. We have enough for 4-5 meals thanks to the freezer we had installed in Guaymas. By sunrise we were east of Isla Carmen and by 9AM the wind died. We continued under power to Agua Verde, one of our favourite anchorages and joined 2 other boats for a quiet night. Sometime after 2am Fran summoned me up on deck to see the phosphorescence produced by schools of bait fish and larger fish feeding on them, a beautiful sight and a reminder of the reasons we are here. The windlass completed its first official task and performed flawlessly.
After settling into the anchorage last night we tried to connect up to the WINLINK system (E-mail by HF/SSB radio) but found a broken plug at the back of the modem. It took several hours for J-G to do a temporary fix by soldering the wires back onto the DIN plug. We finally got it operating and got out a few e-mails and our first WINLINK position report. We will try to be more regular with these so that you can follow our track on the WINLINK site. Boats are identified by radio call signs. Ours is VE7JGN .
Sunday 4, Jan
We are anchored in San Evaristo Bay, about 55 miles from La Paz. We arrived here yesterday afternoon after a motor-sail down from Agua Verde due to light winds. We had initially intended on anchoring at Isla San Francisco but the anchorage is fully exposed to the westerly wind that has established itself during the afternoon. Our decision proved a wise one. By 1 AM the wind had risen to 25 kts for the remainder of the night. Our fearl of dragging made it a sleepless night but the anchor held firm and the Nobletech anchor aid showed a tight drift pattern of less than 40 yards. By the time we woke up it was too late to attempt the last leg to La Paz so we decided to lay up here for another day.
This morning several boats departed but one in particular raised J-G’s interest. There was something familiar about the name Om Shanti, a Westsail 32 that had been anchored just beside us. He didn’t realise until they disappeared around the headland that this was the boat owned by the couple who had written the newest cruising guide to the Sea of Cortez and who we had purchased our copy from at the Blue water cruiser’s meeting last October.
We have spent a nice quiet day relaxing and attending to minor odds and ends. We also met Ken and Patty Starr, two retired teachers from Powell River, aboard Red Pepper. By sundown the bay filled up with another bunch of boats seeking shelter from the westerlies predicted overnight. Tomorrow we expect to have the northerlies fill in so our trip to La Paz should be a comfortable one.
Monday, 5 January 2009
We completed our transit to La Paz today. We departed at 7:30 into a freshening northerly wind. We were able to make over 7 kts but needed the engine and sails to get us in by 3PM. We were greeted at the dock at Marina Palmira by our friends Bill and Linda (Tanque de Tiburon) who had been expecting us for the past few weeks. While we were checking in we spotted Kirk (Freedom Kirkland), our prairie farmer from Kirkland Alberta, wandering along the docks. Rosie was overjoyed of having solid land under her feet and she didn’t stop thanking us for the remainder of the afternoon.
This is a wonderful facility and we will stay for a few days before heading south again but we will certainly return here in April on our way back north.
Saturday, 3 Jan 2009
We are finally at sea and headed south. We have departed an overnight anchorage at Agua Verde and are headed towards La Paz. The wind is on the nose so we are powering and making good 6 kts at 1680 rpm.
We departed San Carlos mid morning on the first of January after spending the evening with friends at the Captain’s Club. Out of 5 couples at our table only 2 made it to midnight. The cruiser’s midnight of 2100 was obviously well ingrained. We were ready to depart. All preps were completed and we had bid farewell to everyone the night before. Julie (Sea Fire) cast off our lines while Rosie cast longing looks at the shore and at her pal Cortez. Trish (Ka-Em-Te) waved from her boat as we slipped along the moored boats and headed out of the marina. On the way out we passed Daydream, with Wayne and Susan from Ladysmith. They will be heading for the Marquesas this season.
Once out of the harbour we were met by light easterly winds and a 2-3 foot swell from the southwest but after an hour the wind veered to the SSW and freshened to 15-18 kts. We were able to sail all day and night under genoa, main and mizzen with the wind abaft the beam. Mid afternoon we had a strike on the fishing line and brought in a nice 8-10 lb Dorado. We have enough for 4-5 meals thanks to the freezer we had installed in Guaymas. By sunrise we were east of Isla Carmen and by 9AM the wind died. We continued under power to Agua Verde, one of our favourite anchorages and joined 2 other boats for a quiet night. Sometime after 2am Fran summoned me up on deck to see the phosphorescence produced by schools of bait fish and larger fish feeding on them, a beautiful sight and a reminder of the reasons we are here. The windlass completed its first official task and performed flawlessly.
After settling into the anchorage last night we tried to connect up to the WINLINK system (E-mail by HF/SSB radio) but found a broken plug at the back of the modem. It took several hours for J-G to do a temporary fix by soldering the wires back onto the DIN plug. We finally got it operating and got out a few e-mails and our first WINLINK position report. We will try to be more regular with these so that you can follow our track on the WINLINK site. Boats are identified by radio call signs. Ours is VE7JGN .
Sunday 4, Jan
We are anchored in San Evaristo Bay, about 55 miles from La Paz. We arrived here yesterday afternoon after a motor-sail down from Agua Verde due to light winds. We had initially intended on anchoring at Isla San Francisco but the anchorage is fully exposed to the westerly wind that has established itself during the afternoon. Our decision proved a wise one. By 1 AM the wind had risen to 25 kts for the remainder of the night. Our fearl of dragging made it a sleepless night but the anchor held firm and the Nobletech anchor aid showed a tight drift pattern of less than 40 yards. By the time we woke up it was too late to attempt the last leg to La Paz so we decided to lay up here for another day.
This morning several boats departed but one in particular raised J-G’s interest. There was something familiar about the name Om Shanti, a Westsail 32 that had been anchored just beside us. He didn’t realise until they disappeared around the headland that this was the boat owned by the couple who had written the newest cruising guide to the Sea of Cortez and who we had purchased our copy from at the Blue water cruiser’s meeting last October.
We have spent a nice quiet day relaxing and attending to minor odds and ends. We also met Ken and Patty Starr, two retired teachers from Powell River, aboard Red Pepper. By sundown the bay filled up with another bunch of boats seeking shelter from the westerlies predicted overnight. Tomorrow we expect to have the northerlies fill in so our trip to La Paz should be a comfortable one.
Monday, 5 January 2009
We completed our transit to La Paz today. We departed at 7:30 into a freshening northerly wind. We were able to make over 7 kts but needed the engine and sails to get us in by 3PM. We were greeted at the dock at Marina Palmira by our friends Bill and Linda (Tanque de Tiburon) who had been expecting us for the past few weeks. While we were checking in we spotted Kirk (Freedom Kirkland), our prairie farmer from Kirkland Alberta, wandering along the docks. Rosie was overjoyed of having solid land under her feet and she didn’t stop thanking us for the remainder of the afternoon.
This is a wonderful facility and we will stay for a few days before heading south again but we will certainly return here in April on our way back north.